![]() ![]() Worth noting: the drain pan bolts did have blue loctite on them, which I did not reapply. I tightened everything to hand tight, save for the 17mm bolts for the subframe that I got much tighter than that. Personally, I didn’t use gasket sealant, but you may want to. With that, I put the new gasket that came with the filter on the pan and tightened everything up. Replace the transmission filter (3 10mm bolts): With the pan off, have a look inside and clean off the pan & the two magnets: For one side of the pan you have to first unbolt and remove part of the subframe bracing – not as hard as it sounds though, just 4 17mm bolts to zap off (right side of the first pic below): Once drained, remove the pan – there are a total of 17 10mm bolts here. You have to remove the splash guard first in order to access the trans – these consist mainly of clips and screws that are 10mm, and alternatively have a screwdriver slot:ĭrain the trans – I placed the jug under it to get an idea how much was coming out of the pan, which didn’t work so well: I did this job once before on my Corolla and the process was very similar, so I was comfortable with what I was doing.Ĭar up on ramps. ![]() While I used 14qts, I think this trans will easily take 16qts – I simply stopped short once I was running low on new fluid. This is much more involved than an engine oil change or a diff fluid flush, so please do so at your own risk. I’ll probably just drain and fill every 30k moving forward, instead of doing the whole thing like I did this time. ![]() This is the big one – most people who do this job don’t flush all the fluid like I’m about to describe, and arguably don’t need to if this is going to be a regular job – I bought the car with 85k miles already on it, so it was one of the first things I wanted to do.
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